Okay folks just what I was saying the other day and that was to wait on Jim for his instructions. His instructions are smiple and the equipment is easy to attain for basically most people.

Summing up his video.
1/ heat source -- electric heating element
2/ 2 oz baby bottle with nipple
3/ 8 oz baby bottle
4/ two 4 oz dropper bottles
5/ distilled water
6/ thermometer to maintain the hot water at about 180F
7/ 1/8 plastic tubing
8/ measuring divice to measure 1oz of sodium chlorite & 1oz citric acid into the 2oz baby bottle
9/ container for the ice water (ice & water are the same temp until all the ice has melted so no need to remove the water right away)
10/ container to hold the hot water

Let the process continue for two hours or until the MMS has reached its end point when it stops producing CLO2.
Then transfer the CDS into the two 4oz bottles.

Jim did not mention anything about the drops such as does three drops of CDS equal 3 drops MMS. Since he did not say anything to this then I would expect them to be equivalent in potency. Jim did not say to get test strips or meters to measure the ppm of CLO2. Lets keep it simple to make it readily available to everyone.

Advantages:
No acid in the solution of which many are allergic.
No acid reduces the heximer affect.
The taste is much easier for people to accept.

NOW, if you did not mind the taste of MMS1 like myself then I would assume that the original way is still acceptable.

I am sure that there may be more efficient ways or other ways of doing this proceedure but Jim is speaking to the masses so lets keep this in mind when Jim is giving instructions.

I think the method of knowing when the water are fully saturated when the smell is coming out of the CDS bottle is not a valid one. this is why in this video Jim doest say anything about it.

I have an Ozone generator and it is used for saturating ozone in a glass of water to drink it. you will always smell the ozone even if the water are not fully saturated because the bubbles go very quickly through the water and not all of the Ozone stays in the water.

The same with the CDS. especially as we do not use a bubbles stone (which gives very small bubbles) only big bubble that comes from the plastic tube. that way some goes into the water and some into the air.

I think that the 1/8 measures working for two hours (not 5-15 minutes) will give a stronger and fully saturated CDS.

I think Jim got this way of doing it published after they (Jim and the church) did the testing to know that this is the best way.

So, I guess, just a smell and color are not the way to know when the CDS i ready, 1/8 for two hours in a steady hot temperature of the water around the first bottle and ice around the second one is the way to get the fully saturated CDS.

orv wrote:

When will you be doing your test strips ? It will be interesting

My test strips will be in at the "local" Grainger store (45 miles away) on Tuesday or so. They'll call me.

Obviously I won't get to testing until after that.

Steve wrote:

Michael, you are right about the test strips. This will give me cause to buy that pricey meter I've been eying..... after Christmas.

You could dilute CDS, to get in more precise range of test strips.

For example, if you dilute it 10x (by adding 9 mL of water to 1 mL of CDS) you maybe get in more precise range of test strips? After that, you just multiply results with 10. I don't know range of test strips, but we could always dilute solution to working range.

I think that the most important thing about CDS is how to seal first bottle, one where we activate MMS.

What materials to use, how to use them.

I tried to make CDS and first time it was disaster, CD leaked out, sealing wasn't good at all, I had CD poisoning and still coughing. Of course, almost no CD was in second bottle.

And about storing CDS, I suggest that all CDS is stored in bottles full to the maximum. That way CD has to stay in water as much as it is possible. I have bottle of CDS that barely has CDS and I can see it's full with CD gas. So for storing, bottles should be full and when you start to use it, it would be best if you have more smaller bottles, so each is full to the maximum, leaving no room for CD to get out of water (or saline solution).

pam wrote:

I was thinking, and could be wrong, that I would activate 3 drops of mms, put it in 4 oz of water, and measure the ppm. This would give me a "base measurement"

Then I would take 1mL of CDS, made as Mark and Andreas have shown, put it in 4 oz of water, and measure the ppm.

Assuming that Mark and Andreas are correct, (each mL is equivalent to 3 or 4 drops of activated MMS) would this not work as a test?

Yes, this way you'll know how 3 drops compare to 1 mL of CDS, is it more or less strong. But with my method you'll have idea how strong (how many ppm) is one drop of MMS and when you measure CDS, you'll know how many drops it represents.

For example, with your method you'll measure (just guessing here) that 3 drops are 350 ppm. And that CDS is 400 ppm. And yes, here I didn't take in account dilution you're planning to make to 4 oz. Anyway, this way you'll have idea about strength of CDS compared to 3 drops, and you'll still need to divide 350 ppm with 3 and find that 1 drop is about 120 ppm (I round that up).

I think that it's best to know how strong is 1 drop of MMS, then we could easily calculate for how many drops CDS stands for. As I said, I measured that one drop is in range of 200 ppm that looks pretty much. And I may be wrong.

Also, when someone has CDS that's stronger than 500 ppm (as test strips don't measure higher strength), I suggest that (s)he dilutes it by two, or four (or ten, whatever is needed to get in test strips range) and then test. This way will know with same test strips how really strong is that batch of CDS.

Hi

check on futureheathtoday.com
they will deliver cds in the future
good luck

peter

okay I just watched another video with Jim Humble and I think I solved the issue
it looks like the problem is that hot and cold solutions will create a vacuum and equalize after awhile and so I guess this is what was going on with my own setup. So what I followed Jim Humbles example and used a smaller mixing bottle that was just big enough to contain 50ml of MMS and that seems to of solved the problem.

Hi dear people

I just got a message from my MMS supplier from the UK , that they are going to deliver CDS in the future
Not a lot, because of transport and tenability and if that doesn't work out they offer you a kit to prepare it yourself
Watch futurehealthtoday.com
all the best

peter

When will you be doing your test strips ? It will be interesting

I'm getting full saturated CDS with 1/10 ratio. Actually after it's done, there's still a LOT of chlorine dioxide left in the generator chamber, so I think even a 1/12 ratio is still good for full saturation.

Sitting here thinking that Andreas uses 10% of the total water in MMS and 10% in Citric Acid. Jim is using 1/8th measures - 1 ozCA and 1oz MMS to 8 oz of water. I wonder if this is where the difference is in whether the CDS is equiv to a 3 drop dose (Andreas) or a 4 drop dose (Mark) - I have not run the figures on it, but it makes sense to me.

Great video.

Very interesting to see that the H2O bottle is kept open on top and still after 2 hours the water looks completely saturated.

We have a 16 month here at home so we have a HUGE selection of baby bottles that she no longer uses. Cool to see that we found another use for them now!

Confusing, a bit - Andreas and Mark have different protocols than Jim - although, overall the outcome is probably the same. But, I think, for me the bottom line is going to be found on the test strip - comparing MMS1 to CDS.

In Jim's video, he says it should last 2 - 3 months, if kept refrigerated with an airtight seal. His bottles are clear, though. I'm wondering if dark bottles would keep it longer. Of course, he's probably using it more than most so it probably doesn't sit around long, at his location.

I'm also wondering about a difference in dosages. It's possible that the absence of acid may reduce the amount needed to get the job done. Without the nausea, there's no real way to measure that as we don't know the exact effect of the acid on the efficacy. From what everyone is saying, the CDS seems to be having a stronger effect. Unfortunately, since there is still a question about the mechanics of exactly how MMS works and no idea about the effect of removing the acid, we'll just have to try it and see what happens.

I'm seldom sick but I use it to brush my teeth, every day. So I have some effects I can compare - such as how long it will last in a teeth brushing dilution, what it tastes like when it's spent, how it compares at solidifying and removing mucous from the mouth, first thing in the morning. That sort of thing. And, of course, the differences when used for odors and cleaning - which is what I use it for, mostly.

There are MANY things I've WANTED to try with MMS, but I'm a fraidy-cat! So I won't be doing anything TOO crazy. And I am SO appreciative that Jim included the info about what type of tubing NOT to use - in his email!! THAT'S the kind of stuff I want to avoid!

I believe you're right. I suppose it wouldn't matter - if you don't smell the gas until it's saturated anyway...why bother? If it was popping out of bubbles at the top, you'd smell the gas from the vent tube, continuously, right?

Perhaps the original method is a laboratory technique designed for more volatile or more toxic gases? If left to its own devices, i don't suppose you'd want some yucky kind of gas pouring out the top of your bottle once your solution was saturated. You'd want to minimize leakage. Of course, even with a vent, you're going to lose control of it once you remove the seal, anyway.

I just watched the Jim Humble video, too, and was wondering about his 8 ounce bottle. It appeared to me in the video that he had no lid/nipple on it and it was just open? I may have not seen that clear enough in the video but that is what it looked like to me! I thought both bottles were airtight with the CDS solution bottle having a needle to vent, etc. Did I see this incorrectly or can it be made in the open bottle? I want to try making this but want to be certain about that 8 ounce bottle. Thanks for any info.

I'm going to start with less MMS1 and use whatever "less than spent" solution is left after the receiving end is saturated. I'll dilute, fill a couple of teeth-brushing and spray bottles, refrigerate and use it until it's completely spent. Why not, eh? It isn't going to be contaminated in any way, right?

I don't throw out MMS1 solution until it is completely clear and the taste is gone. Why should I? Perhaps there is a reason I shouldn't brush my teeth with it, but even a weak solution will deodorize smelly trash cans and detoxify a bag of dry-cleaning, eh?

I will also be using an ice bucket to keep the receiving solution good and cold.

If I were going to ship CDS, I would use half full bottles, squeezed to remove as much air as possible and then thoroughly sealed in the squeezed configuration. With instructions to refrigerate for 24 hours before opening. That way the gas will have room to expel as it warms up or if it gets too warm, during shipping, and then be reintegrated with refrigeration before use. One could experiment with that, readily enough. How much you could put in a bottle, how much air must be released, how warm it could get before bulging the bottle, how long it would take to cool it back down and get the gas back into solution, etc., etc..

I don't sell MMS but those of you who do could practice sending bottles of CDS back and forth. Or I'll practice with someone. You never know - I might need to send some somewhere, some day.

edit: Just saw the new vid with Jim making CDS and he has the receiving end in ice water so I guess that will work. Hadn't thought about using a small bottle for the MMS. Makes perfect sense to leave no room for the gas in the MMS bottle. Cool!