NEW ! CDS Clorine dioxide solution (MMS) by Andreas Kalcker

Made some yesterday, a couple things to say:

avoid the natural cork route, the gas will leak out/through before it gains enough pressure to make bubbles.

I made my "airtight" reaction chamber by removing the glass tube from a dropper cap, poking a hole through the top of the squeeze bulb, pushing the pointed end of the tube out through the hole, and screwing the cap back onto a 4oz glass bottle. (like that picture of the bottle with pour spout and inverted dropper tube)

and...

it tastes fine in milk. Thanks everyone!

Ok, I just made some for myself.

I'd like to say a thank you to all here for the exchange of information.

Bill too.

I did the hot water way, with no forced air and the bubbles stopped in the second bottle until I shook the first bottle some more and when I thought there was no more, I capped my ClO2 bottle and put it back in the fridge.

So, then I went to pour the "spent" MMS down the bathroom drain. Whew! what a whiff. That was ok though. It gave me a bit of a dry throat and I didn't mind.

Then I thought of Bill's caution and that made me think of my iron drain pipes. Woah. So all I could do was to turn on the faucet with cold water and hope for the best.

I turned on the bathtub faucet too so more water would wash it down below.

Next time it's going outside in the yard. That is unless someone finds a use for it.
I wouldn't be surprised if there is still some healing potential left in the reaction chamber after making the ClO2.

Now I can see how I did with that batch.
I think I will get some test strips too.

Oh, and Dishpan and Michael are right about the corks too. I added some masking tape around the polyethylene tubing where it goes into the corks and it sealed. I will have to get a new setup, but this works for now.

Thanks everyone!

Joe

I'm going to start with less MMS1 and use whatever "less than spent" solution is left after the receiving end is saturated. I'll dilute, fill a couple of teeth-brushing and spray bottles, refrigerate and use it until it's completely spent. Why not, eh? It isn't going to be contaminated in any way, right?

I don't throw out MMS1 solution until it is completely clear and the taste is gone. Why should I? Perhaps there is a reason I shouldn't brush my teeth with it, but even a weak solution will deodorize smelly trash cans and detoxify a bag of dry-cleaning, eh?

I will also be using an ice bucket to keep the receiving solution good and cold.

If I were going to ship CDS, I would use half full bottles, squeezed to remove as much air as possible and then thoroughly sealed in the squeezed configuration. With instructions to refrigerate for 24 hours before opening. That way the gas will have room to expel as it warms up or if it gets too warm, during shipping, and then be reintegrated with refrigeration before use. One could experiment with that, readily enough. How much you could put in a bottle, how much air must be released, how warm it could get before bulging the bottle, how long it would take to cool it back down and get the gas back into solution, etc., etc..

I don't sell MMS but those of you who do could practice sending bottles of CDS back and forth. Or I'll practice with someone. You never know - I might need to send some somewhere, some day.

edit: Just saw the new vid with Jim making CDS and he has the receiving end in ice water so I guess that will work. Hadn't thought about using a small bottle for the MMS. Makes perfect sense to leave no room for the gas in the MMS bottle. Cool!

I just watched the Jim Humble video, too, and was wondering about his 8 ounce bottle. It appeared to me in the video that he had no lid/nipple on it and it was just open? I may have not seen that clear enough in the video but that is what it looked like to me! I thought both bottles were airtight with the CDS solution bottle having a needle to vent, etc. Did I see this incorrectly or can it be made in the open bottle? I want to try making this but want to be certain about that 8 ounce bottle. Thanks for any info.

I believe you're right. I suppose it wouldn't matter - if you don't smell the gas until it's saturated anyway...why bother? If it was popping out of bubbles at the top, you'd smell the gas from the vent tube, continuously, right?

Perhaps the original method is a laboratory technique designed for more volatile or more toxic gases? If left to its own devices, i don't suppose you'd want some yucky kind of gas pouring out the top of your bottle once your solution was saturated. You'd want to minimize leakage. Of course, even with a vent, you're going to lose control of it once you remove the seal, anyway.

Confusing, a bit - Andreas and Mark have different protocols than Jim - although, overall the outcome is probably the same. But, I think, for me the bottom line is going to be found on the test strip - comparing MMS1 to CDS.

When will you be doing your test strips ? It will be interesting

Hi dear people

I just got a message from my MMS supplier from the UK , that they are going to deliver CDS in the future
Not a lot, because of transport and tenability and if that doesn't work out they offer you a kit to prepare it yourself
Watch futurehealthtoday.com
all the best

peter

pam wrote: I was thinking, and could be wrong, that I would activate 3 drops of mms, put it in 4 oz of water, and measure the ppm. This would give me a "base measurement"

Then I would take 1mL of CDS, made as Mark and Andreas have shown, put it in 4 oz of water, and measure the ppm.

Assuming that Mark and Andreas are correct, (each mL is equivalent to 3 or 4 drops of activated MMS) would this not work as a test?

Yes, this way you'll know how 3 drops compare to 1 mL of CDS, is it more or less strong. But with my method you'll have idea how strong (how many ppm) is one drop of MMS and when you measure CDS, you'll know how many drops it represents.

For example, with your method you'll measure (just guessing here) that 3 drops are 350 ppm. And that CDS is 400 ppm. And yes, here I didn't take in account dilution you're planning to make to 4 oz. Anyway, this way you'll have idea about strength of CDS compared to 3 drops, and you'll still need to divide 350 ppm with 3 and find that 1 drop is about 120 ppm (I round that up).

I think that it's best to know how strong is 1 drop of MMS, then we could easily calculate for how many drops CDS stands for. As I said, I measured that one drop is in range of 200 ppm that looks pretty much. And I may be wrong.

Also, when someone has CDS that's stronger than 500 ppm (as test strips don't measure higher strength), I suggest that (s)he dilutes it by two, or four (or ten, whatever is needed to get in test strips range) and then test. This way will know with same test strips how really strong is that batch of CDS.

I think that the most important thing about CDS is how to seal first bottle, one where we activate MMS.

What materials to use, how to use them.

I tried to make CDS and first time it was disaster, CD leaked out, sealing wasn't good at all, I had CD poisoning and still coughing. Of course, almost no CD was in second bottle.

And about storing CDS, I suggest that all CDS is stored in bottles full to the maximum. That way CD has to stay in water as much as it is possible. I have bottle of CDS that barely has CDS and I can see it's full with CD gas. So for storing, bottles should be full and when you start to use it, it would be best if you have more smaller bottles, so each is full to the maximum, leaving no room for CD to get out of water (or saline solution).