Michael, I'm healthy hemorrhoids with MMS for more than 1 year.
It is here already written and MMS does not help me.
There is someone advise me (more than 1 month ago) to make with CDS do ice
plugs and give the anus.To I've been 1 month and a half, does not help anything.
I'm on this forum reviewed the experience of people (not moderators) one in one year does not report on the success of treatment of hemorrhoids.
Michael you're here stated as 2 cases, this is really strange.
The forum in my country asking people if they have a good experience with MMS and hemorrhoids, hemorrhoids no one went to the MMS.
MMS can help for many things, but for my experience hemorrhoids are negative

Morning, Evanir. Minerals would be fine. Seawater is an excellent source. Expensive, but MMS4Sale has one that's less than half price. the antioxidants provide things other than antioxidants, too - they're OK, but I'd do them at the end of the day, away from your MMS. Cal/Mag/D3 are definitely important, particularly at our age, and if you're not getting sunlight or are taking meds that deplete those minerals.

Pam,

when you said "all kinds of vitamins and minerals that are probably deficient in our soils and plants"
are you saying we need to supplement ?

I was under the impression we shouldn't take any of the antioxidant vitamins, but can we take minerals?
I know the sea water would be the best source, but I still take calcium and magnesium and also vitamin D3.
Do you think these are ok?

I found that if I had a shot glass with straight sides it was more problematic than if I had one that had a bulge at the bottom. My guess is that you could even use a small cordial glass, with a footed bottom (taller), or someone floated a syringe upside down - You have to test to see what you have that works.

Pam

Pam,

That could be right, the 4oz of water very well may not have enuf mass....and it looked a bit weak,
but I used the fridge!

I'm gonna try the heated shot glass but in cool water....heck, if I could find a glass riser or just turn a small ceramic
bowl upside down with a nice flat bottom, then place the shot glass on top of that, I could probably get 10oz or so

But I'm gonna stick to the 4oz just to compare....keeping in mind that its mass may be key! Thank you!

kw

About the type of shot glass that will not tip over and will float:

For the large jar I use a regular quart canning jar and for the shot glass I had to test several little jars, glasses, etc. to see
which one would not tip over. Finally I found one that when it starts to tip over, a little portion of the mouth gets stuck on the
side of the quart jar. Meaning that the little jar is long enough to get caught on the side of the big jar when it is at an angle.

I wish I had a picture to show.

I did use the testing strips and mine has been on 50, which is good. Pam said it should be between 30 and 50 (referring to the color of the strip)

I hope Charlotte writes about her method so we can make stronger batches. But I am having good results with the CDS so far.
Evanir

To make CDS, you instill the chlorine dioxide gas into water. That gives it a measuring capacity. If you have a 3000 ppm/L of chlorine dioxide (that's what you need the testing strips for to find out what your ppm/L is), and you use 1mL of CDS, you have the equivalent of 3 drops of regular activated MMS.

Jim Humble has a YouTube on JimHumbleLive dated 2/9/2012 revised, as I recall, and he will show you how to make CDS "the old way" (which is actually the way I make it, because I make it in volume, but not in the volume someone who retails it would make) -- that will give you a clearer picture of how it is made, using a heat source for the MMS/CA mixture.

We've since played around on the forum here with several other ways to make CDS (it's always about combining MMS and CA and siphoning off the chlorine dioxide gas into water, regardless) -

Jim Humble's method still requires testing strips to know where you are. Guys, we have something coming that won't require you have testing strips because the testing has all been done for you.

Hang out for just a bit longer.

The type of shot glass determines whether or not it will work in this. I have had no problems with my shot glass in 2 cups of water in a quart jar. IMHO, 4 oz of water is not enough water in the jar. I tested with 4 oz of water and got a weaker solution and theorized that it was because there was not enough water for the gas to instill into. Charlotte is using even more water, as I recall.

hello ,
Still learning
you mention 1mL of cds...how can one gather 1mL of the cds? is this not the gas that is produced by the activated mms? can you explain a lil please im just trying to get it right thanks

pam wrote:

It's hard to tell, based on what you've given us.

To test for ppm, combine 1mL of CDS and 9mL of water. I use a shot glass. Dip your chlorine dioxide (not chlorine, not PH) testing strip into that 1:9 mixture as per the directions on the bottle. (I think it's 2 second dip, then 10 second wait, but go by the direction) - determine the strength by the color swatch on the testing strip bottle. Multiply that number by 10 and you will have your PPMs per liter

If the number is "off the scale" high, (i.e., the swatch turns black) you're going to have to redo the test with 1mL of CDS and 19mL of water. Then multiply THAT amount by 20 to get your ppm/L

JH has tried to standardize the CDS to around 3000 ppm/L - there the dosing is 1mL is equivalent to 3 drops of MMS. I usually end up with 6000 ppm/L, and my dosing is .5 mL ..

I, personally, have found that it's easier for me to adjust the size of my doses to equal 3 drops of MMS than to dilute the mixture to equal 3000 ppm/L.

Jason,

Mine just stood on the bottom, 4oz of water surrounding the shot glass, no need to float it!

So, the answer is, it depends on the width of your jar etc!

CRATE and BARREL online and in stores carry WECK canning jars and nice large
candy jars to do the shot glass method without the need to float the shot glass, and no need for tongs for anyone interested!

kw

See the second page. Its very easy. This makes it 12,000 ppm. I made these instructions from Jim's video for myself.

I just tried it for the first time and the shotglass sank even though I was really careful.

Can you just have less water so the shotglass just barely stands, or do I need another shotglass?

Thanks Pam,

Do you know how many drops she used to achieve that ppm?

I was concerned about pressure build up!

Anyways...my method worked, even tho I went against the odds.....not sure
how much got wasted due to the cold of the fridge tho.

But it was, an experiment so, nothing ventured nothing gained!

kw

The shot glass method requires a tightly capped jar. You don't want any of that gas to escape, you want it to go down into the water. Charlotte has made up to 12,000 or 12,500 ppm/L CDS, which is quite high. She just hasn't written it up yet in a formal fashion. It can be done.

Thank you for that pdf!

Just last night I experimented, 30-drops of each into 4oz into a wide mouth WECK jar 18oz
and put it into the fridge.

I got color just like in the file! However, the shot glass still had remnants of color, so what happened was
the cold stopped the reaction after it got going for a while....I just wanted to see what would happen!

The only drawback on the WECK is, there is no screw on cap! but it worked just the same.
A bit of the gas leaked out, but it wasn't too bad! I removed the rubber gasket as I knew the reaction would attack the rubber.
So, tonight, providing I can find the right cloth, I'll cut a piece as a gasket, not to stop the gas, but to slow it down, so it can still push its' way out to vent, because we don't want pressure to build up and be unable to escape!!!

Tonight I'll pre-heat the shot glass. That way,
it will lose less heat energy being that it is already pre-heated and should fully react, and go clear
in the shot glass and have good color in the water! I was gonna heat the water, but thought better of it.
I'm gonna look around for a shot glass with as much mass as possible to keep it from heat sinking the mixture!

I'll ask admin what is the maximum drops tried and or reco'd for the shot glass method, cuz I don't know!

Perhaps that's why JH reco'd the 24 drops, to reduce the amt of pressure built up!

Jason ,we'll both be waiting for the answer together! Cuz I too would like to know!

kw

Jeremiah, we have a thread about it in the CDS section, here's the link.
www.genesis2forum.org/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=51&id=18533&Itemid=66

Right now it's pretty much how to do a day's dosing, but Charlotte is doing some experimenting to see how to build the PPMs so that it is equivalent to what we get with the heat applied method.

Pam

Sorry to hijack the thread, but I figured since we are already on the topic of CDS and I am considering using it topically for acne (MMS burned me badly), here would be as good as anyplace...

JH's 2012 addendum to his book recommends using a hotplate to keep the gas heated as it transfers. Although it wouldn't be a problem for me to obtain one, I'm wondering how necessary this truly is... CLO2, you mention the shot glass method. What exactly is that? Thank you.

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