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None of the products, protocols or methods here have been approved by Jim Humble. This is the research forum and was set up for those wanting to discuss and experiment with MMS, and new complimentary technologies. Any experimentation that you personally do is at your own risk. Before anything is submitted for approval it must be first approved by Jim Humble in writing and posted under his account. The main source for approved material, protocols etc, is in Jim Humble's latest book at www.jhbooks.org Each person using this Forum is considered to be completely responsible for themselves and their own personal health. Any experimentation that you personally do is at your own risk.
NEW! forced air method--CDS Chlorine dioxide solution (MMS)
- Michael Harrah
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genesis2forum.org/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=16&id=8260&limit=6&limitstart=6&Itemid=66#8287
I just ordered some pyrex and stoppers. I'm going to make a bubbler setup, using an air pump rather than heat to transfer the gas,
With a manifold to create smaller bubbles.
I want to put some up and test it every day to see what the falloff is (if any).
I have checked with some of my sources I use for chemistry questions.... and I don't understand why you have to bubble into saline solution, unless its a buffer to bring the pH of the distilled water up to around neutral. The gas itself will (should) keep fine in any water that isn't acidic, be it saline or no.... if this is the case, then sodium bicarbonate may also work.
I will probably try 2 methods.... one with MMS and citric acid, and one with 5% NaClO2 and 6% HCl. The HCl will convert 100% of the available ClO2, whereas the Citric Acid will only release about 2/3 and hold the rest in reserve in the clorous acid. You can't use HcL with MMS for this conversion because the reaction would be pretty violent. You would need a 25% HCl to get the full potential.
From what I understand the ClO2 solution can remain viable for 30 days easily, as long as there is no UV exposure.
I am looking forward to the stuff getting here.
Please everyone remember that the gas in the small bottle is explosively flammable, and take all due care, and work in a well ventilated area.
genesis2forum.org/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=16&id=8260&limit=6&limitstart=84&Itemid=66#8555
Ok, Here's what I got done today.
I made my CDS Generator.
The 3rd chamber contains a chemical called sodium thiosulfite. It neutralizes ClO2.
The vented gas at the end of the run has very little chlorine smell, and even after 5 runs remained clear.
My first run was with MMS and 50% Citric Acid.... 50 drops of each.
The forced air method with a cold mix did not have the thick gas cloud.
I got about 250 ppm in 10 minutes.
Then I used 1 gram of Sodium Chlorite Flake and enough 6.25% HCl to cover it.
I had a nice yellow mixture in 1 minute
The result was over 500 ppm in 5 minutes.
The 3rd run was with 5% NaClO2 and 6.25% HCl. This gave me 150 ppm ClO2 in 10 minutes.
It seems that in the long run, while not the fastest method, the 5% seems to be the most efficient. 1/4 the actual NaClO2 content returned over 1/2 the amount on ClO2 as the MMS and citric acid. I'll be playing with this a few days, and I will try to get Some one on the Island to give me an idea of what the ppm range should be.
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- townsend
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I think this might be useful. It's a PDF with instructions on how to cut and bend glass tubing.
It doesn't seem too difficult.
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- Nir
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Is there any different between CDS created with a pump and CDS created without one?
thanks
Nir
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- pam
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- Nir
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It is just doesn't make sense to me....
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- kwag
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There's no way that the forced air can finish the process faster, because the Chlorine Dioxide is still generated at a lower % than with the hot water.
I've done two batches, and they complete in less than 5 minutes with the hot water bath. There's no way that any pump could make the process faster, unless a "Hot Air" pump was used. And that would heat the cold water in the collector.
And then, you would have to consider a good air filter, because I wouldn't want dust and air polutants aggregated to the gas mixture. I think Andreas method is hard to beat, and that's the method I will continue to use, because it "Just Works (tm)"
-Karl
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- kwag
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As long as you have an opening on the end, there's hardly any pressure build up!
But I understand your concern, and If I were to build a device for sale, yes indeed I wouldn't use the hot water method
But for MY batches, I'd prefer the hot method, because the gas is forced faster to the collector.
BTW, a hybrid system would work even better, and that is, the hot water WITH the pump!
That would force a continuous flow of air through the system, and avoid buildup in the generator chamber
-Karl
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- pam
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When I made my first 2 batches there was enough gas left over to be significant to me (hey, I cleaned out some of the mold in my back pantry, LOL) - I think this method removes a lot of that and puts it back into the CDS, where it has value.
I'm just looking (over time) for consistency of dose.
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- kwag
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Steve wrote: There's a lot of stored energy in this stuff.
PS you are creating pressure in the gas chamber or it would not bubble thru the water.
Yes indeed
I was also about to suggest to wear eye goggles for protection.
But please, stay safe, or you (and all of us!) could end up like this!
thebsreport.files.wordpress.com/2010/04/bad_hair_day_by_cherie_buller.jpg?w=500&h=482
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- Michael Harrah
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I bought the lowest price aquarium pump at petco. I also bought a 2 gang valve for it. That way I could exactly control the air flow into the reaction chamber. I did have to open the other valve a little to let some air through to relieve some of the air going into the system.
I also tried using a cork for the reaction chamber yesterday and it did not work. It was too porous and not enough pressure would build up to push Cl02 through the tubing into the cold water. Today I tried a mason jar with holes drilled in the plastic lid for the tubing (see pic). That also did not seal well so I did not get any gas being pushed into the 3rd chamber where I had plain water to try and soak up any excess Cl02 escaping from the 2nd chamber. Therefore, I think a rubber stopper is necessary on the 1st (reaction) chamber for sure to get good sealing, and any chamber where you want good sealing. In the pics below, that is a light colored rubber stopper on the smaller reaction chamber so I could get a good seal.
I put my setup out on the back patio and had a large fan blowing right near it to dissipate the Cl02 escaping from the mason jar.
I had 1000 ml of cold distilled water in the 1/2 gal. mason jar and used 110 ml of MMS and 110 ml of HCl 4%. I let the air pump for 30-40 mins. till the chambers were both the exact same yellow color.
I do believe I am getting full saturation of the distilled water now, whereas I did not the first two times I generated without forced air. I have been taking 1/2 tsp. CDS hourly (in 2 tbsp of water) 8 hrs/day for the last 2 weeks and when I started taking today's batch from forced air, it started burning my throat. It is definitely stronger, the yellow is darker also. I think this is real saturation.
It seems to me the chlorine dioxide test strips (0-500ppm) are not that accurate when you get into the higher ranges. It might be better to take 1 ml. of the CDS and put it in a certain amount of distilled water and take a reading from that to get the reading into the lower ranges.
Start of the generation.
End of the generation 30-40 mins.
Michael
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