"6 and 6" is the 6 drops (or equivalent) of activated MMS1 (SCS + HCl) or equivalent CDS
as designated for the animal based on its weight,
given one hour apart.
Unless the animal is very heavy, you NEVER give "actual drops".
You give this to the animal ONCE at the outset IF the animal has not been
specifically diagnosed for a disease or illness (like they are "feeling punky")
to see if that snaps them out of it. (same for people)
Otherwise (and then) you go directly to the Starting Procedure and
work your way up to Protocol 1000 (for about 3 weeks) and then Protocol 1000+ adding DMSO.
6 drops is generally too high to start out with every hour as the protocols need.
"Low and Slow" is best -- start out low and slowly increase over time.
That's what the Starting Procedure and Protocol 1000 are for.
You don't want to "Herx" (overdose) your animal and make them more sick.
ml-C2 is milliliters of Cup 2 mixture. (should be page 296)
ALL drops / ml will be taken from these mixed (activated) cups.
Your vet will usually give you a free syringe. The fatter one (10 ml?), not the skinny one (.1 to 1 ml).
It sounds like you've already done the protocols, but I can't tell if you've done them correctly.
I'm surprised the infection / inflammation hasn't cleared up by now.
Did you apply it directly to the mouth / sores, too, topically?
You can't mix the DMSO into the "Cup" because it will fairly quickly degrade the ClO2.
If you do mix it in, you need to make a new cup mix every time.
Or take some of it out, put it in a different cup, add the DMSO to that, use it once, and discard.
I think he says to use the Cup Mixture twice (two hours) and then make a new batch.
But, if you keep it in a tight bottle or whatever in the refrigerator, it should last at least
half a day, maybe a full day. (you can check it with ClO2 Test Strips)
If you are on Protocol 2000 for animals, which is MMS1, usually not MMS2, he says:
"This is because the principle of Protocol 2000 is you work up to taking as many MMS1 drops
as you can per hour but without getting sick (in this case without your animal getting sick)."
Have you increased the MMS1 "drops" over time toward the max?
(noting that "The second number in this column is the maximum amount of
MMS1 that an animal is likely to be able to take according to the animal’s weight—
never go over the second figure listed."
Sometimes it can take longer than a couple of months. It depends on the animal,
the animal's overall health and immune system quality, what is being treated, etc.
(there are multiple possible causes for Stomatitis)
I put the dosages in chicken broth and my cat licked it up. But at a certain dosage level,
he would balk at it, probably due to the taste and/or smell. I never wanted to stress him
out over forced dosing unless I absolutely had to. So I more or less "maintenance dosed"
him as best as I could and it worked good enough, but never got rid of his FIV.
See my website,
www.aspoonfulofmedicine.com/mystory.php#cat_story
You can try putting SCS in its water, but I don't know how much. That will then
convert to ClO2 in its stomach. But cats generally do not drink a lot of water.
I suppose you could figure out a close amount compared to what you would use
for the activated mixture. (cups) But it also depends on how much water is in
the bowl. Sodium Chlorite is a salt, and is relatively tasteless.
The only other thing you can do is give the cat
actual MMS2, Calcium Hypochlorite,
powder in gel caps you have to fill yourself, as noted in Column 4, MMS2 Maximum dosage.
You can also try putting it in its water, as he mentions in the book.
STARTING LOW (?) and working your way up to the Max. The dosages are in mg,
so you would need a scale, one that will measure milligrams.
(maybe an electronic food-cooking scale -- he gives an example of one in the book --
and he does give you a formula for calculating based on a full gel cap containing
a certain amount, that you can divide out and be close)
BUT the animal cannot have MMS2 and DMSO at the same time!!!
BE VERY CAREFUL ABOUT THAT.
I think that is one of the things he forgot to put in the Animals chapter,
but it is strongly noted elsewhere in the book for humans.
(so, if you put it in their water, which they can drink at any time,
you shouldn't give them DMSO internally that day)
Actual MMS2 and DMSO need to be separated by at least 1/2 hour!!
The directions for that should be on page 297,
"
Column 4: MMS2 dosage for animals. MMS2 is difficult
with animals and normally you don’t have to use MMS2,
but if your animal seems resistant to getting better...."
I never gave my cat actual MMS2.
I hope this clarifies your questions.
I'm glad your cat is doing better. It's too bad he hasn't achieved Health Restoration yet.
There must be some kind of immune enhancers you can give cats. That might help.
You could also try putting it on one of those "Farmer's Diet" foods or Raw Food diets.
You might have to gradually work up to it, mixing with their current food at first.
At least feed it as good a quality cat food as you can, one of the "Premium" cat foods,
ideally, imo, one with "low carbs" and good quality meat sources. My sister-in-law
fed her cat turkey that she bought in a bag of frozen cubes, trying to help its health get better.
I think she claimed it did (seem to) help. It's a more natural cat diet. (true carnivore)