TOPIC:

I have some questions on using MMS2 for a doggy of a friend. He is 8 years old and all his hair fell out and now is covered with what looks like staff infection to me the vet was not sure. (weird) It looks like pimples and bumps and his one joint is swollen and skin burst open to a big sore.

I know its pretty scary.
So my question is should I do protocol 1000 and treat the skin?
In Jim's book Master minerals solutions of the 3rd millennium
He has plan A which is two doses recommended for animals not so sick
I would say this is more a chronic condition of poor immunity as the doggy has to take thyroid meds.
or B?
which is like protocol 2000.

or do I just treat the skin with spray.
I would prefer to give him MMS2 capsules (1\4 of a 0 capsule he is about 50 lbs.
as it would be easier to give to my friends in this form.
I can make up the capsule for his weight and they can throw out some if he reacts. I will monitor it. doing the capsule for MMS1 is more complicated if you are new to this stuff.
I have loaned them my book also to get familiar with it.

Boxers have real sensitive guts.

Also something not clear is the maintenance using unactivated MMS Jim recommends
1 drop per gallon for distilled. I have seen on the forum a person is using 25 drops a gallon.
I am unclear. Or should I just follow the ppm rule. 2-4 ppm .
I would appreciate any feedback and help as this is not my doggy and they have not heard of MMS so I dont want to scare them.

Giz, a couple of things to think about - one is that the MMS2 MUST have plenty of water given with it. If the dog is unable/unwilling to drink at the time, I'd guess it needs to be syringed into it's mouth (no needle in the syringe) -

In addition to whether you're doing MMS1 or MMS2, the skin spray should also be done. It needs to be activated - it's 10 drops of MMS, activated, to 1 oz of water, in a spray bottle. Will keep in the cupboard for some time.

You only use the unactivated MMS in the drinking water if there is going to be a period before the dog drinks. If it were me, I'd probably make up a 5 drop activated MMS per gallon of water and put it in the drinking water dish. It won't go bad if you don't have it all in the dish, and have to add the rest later.

Another option is the staph fume treatment. It;s also in Jim's book. Probably easier to do with people (after all, we can lean over the container) but it's a definite possibility. do you need instructions?

Pam

Pam I tried to invent a system for the fuming using the cds type with the hoses from the jar to a funnel that I could place over his areas with still keeping the liquid contained. It didnt work as the hoses are very thin. Aquarium thickness. I will try again with the open container as a trial run. Most of his worst spots are on his back so its tricky.
Maybe I can get him to lie down.
Would you say the oral system should be the plan a or b?
I definately am more comfortable with mms1 having never used mms2.
but am aware of the water situation.
thanks so much.

Yes, if the problem is on the back, it's hard to get the area over the container that his holding the fumes.

As with humans, I would start with plan A before moving to plan B - plan B is more intense - as you can see - so my theory is (because I'm a bit conservative) to do what is needed and if that's not enough, to move towards something else.

I can tell you that MMS doesn't really work on fleas - so if you've got a flea issue going on, those will not be helped...