Edwin, how much are they diluting it to drink? I wonder if more dilution would eliminate some of the reactions. Or, if the CDS is just causing a strong reaction in the areas that need the most work. (which would be a good thing, in my estimation) -
This is an excellent video, with a LOT of information, but still shows that CDS manufacture is what I call "a moving target"
. As they continue to experiment, things are changing and codifying. If you really understand the procedure from his first video, you can see the evolution here, and realize that there's not a LOT of change. I think, ultimately, there will probably be at least another one coming out later, when the dust settles.
I do like the addition of the Sweetwater air diffuser, as this makes tinier bubbles.
www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/3533/Sweetwater-Air-Diffusers - and he goes into why these particular diffusers (ceramic or glass) are to be used, rather than the plastic ones you get at normal aquarium stores.
He was recommending the AS1, however, depending on the size of the HDPE tubing, it might not work - I would strongly recommend you get on the phone with acquaticeco and let them know both the ID of the HDPE tubing you are using before you purchase. Or... you may want to change out your HDPE tubing - My tubing is 3/8" OD and 1/4" ID. It looks like the sweetwater comes with a nipple that would fit inside the tubing.
In the video, Jim tries to address all the problems that can potentially arise from making CDS at home. Apparently there were some "explosions" in the bottles of people mixing CDS at home (don't know how many), so he emphasized over again that the receiving bottle MUST be open at the top and he's opened a small vent hole in the mixing bottle nipple. He is encouraging people to have active ventilation when they make it - a fan at the table and a fan in the window. He's trying to make this as safe as possible to manufacture.
He now states there is no need to ice the receiving bottle
He is now talking about having the mixing bottle heated to no more than 180 degrees, but rather than 150-160 degrees, now closer to 180 degrees.
He is basically allowing more time for activation, before the 2oz bottle going into the hot water. His timing on this is watching to see when the gas starts over the tubing.
This rise in temperature and additional activation time shortens the processing time, considerably, from 2 hrs to 15-30 minutes. In fact, you may well be able to make a couple of 8 oz bottles of CDS from the 1 oz of MMS1 and 1 oz of Citric Acid.
Where he is most unclear (to me) is in the portion where he determines the ppm and dosing.
I thought his using the blue gatorade as a testing mechanism (if you're in the jungle without test strips) is ingenious - and he is certainly not afraid to show failure, so that we know what that looks like <G>.
At one point in the video he starts talking about a gram measure, rather than a mL - I think he just miss-called the word he was wanting to use. Everything else had been discussed in mL, and he was using the same syringe barrel to measure, so I think he meant to say mL.
I know Michael's and Steve's CDS is standardized at the 3000ppm per liter Jim is discussing, so if you prefer to purchase from a vendor, rather than make your own, he has made that recommendation, and has provided Michael's email address (CONGRATS, Michael and Steve!!!). I understand from off-forum communication that he knows Michael and Steve are working together - along with Dr. Ron - to provide a consistant, standardized CDS.
Depending on how you make it at home, you can get much more than 3000ppm (which could affect the dosing amount). In his initial "how to" video of several weeks ago, after 2 hrs at 150 degrees, the CDS tested fairly consistently at almost 6000ppm per liter, which then required a .5mL dosing to get the 3 drop equivalent.
He inadvertently got that much or more (since the testing strips don't measure above 500) in a 5 minute (after it went in the hot water) batch. His suggestion was to dilute the batch down to the 3000 level. I think this is probably going to be the most confusing for people making it at home. I know I'll have to go back to the testing strips to see where my first couple of batches fall - and I'll write down each step and the timing of it, so that I can get consistency, and so that I will know that if I do "X" at "Y" minutes, the batch will consistently fall at "z" ppm, and I can either adjust the dosing size or add additional water (and how much) to bring the ppm down.
The nice thing is that we do now have - on the video - dosing information and we do have a recommended vendor/supplier.
Pam